US EM Forage Caps - Preferred .
This is the preferred enlisted headgear, but we are trying to get away from some of the less accurately made forage caps out there. Your forage cap should be made of a finely woven dark blue or royal blue wool (not navy blue) with painted leather brim and chin strap. Buttons should be plain US regulation buttons, small size. The liner should be black or brown polished cotton. The cap should NOT be baggy with too much material under the flat crown, and it must not be worn with the sides of the brim rolled under as if it were a modern baseball cap. Attention to these highly visible details will have a wonderful effect on your overall impression.
The early pattern forage cap has a small crown and rounded visor. The later pattern has a larger crown with a more square visor. On both models there is welt around the crown, and both are lined with brown or black polished cotton. Sweatbands are sewn by hand. The earlier pattern forage cap is preferred for this event No kepis.
US (enlisted man's) EM Dress Hats (aka "Hardee hats") - Permitted.
If you have this hat, this is how it should appear: Black in color, made of quality blend of wool-fur felt. Brim dimensions 3 to 3.25 wide. Will have two lines of stitching as an edge binding, and a 3/8-to 5/16- wide ribbon hat band, knotted on the left side. Leather sweatband and black oilcloth crown backing with appropriate markings.
US EM Hat & Cap Trimmings: Keep it plain. No hat cords on enlisted men and no other ornamentation except what is listed in the 1861 regulations. Corps badges hadn't been "invented" yet and will not be part of the impression. Numbers from other regiments on caps will have to be removed.
Civilian Hats - Discouraged
If you have a civilian hat, it should have a sewn-on edge binding of silk ribbon and a sweat band of leather or cotton duck. It must be made of fine wool felt and should not be fuzzy. The following colors are acceptable: medium to dark gray, medium to dark brown, or black, with black being the preferred color.
US EM Fatigue Blouse - Preferred
Wool flannel with a visible ‘wale' in the fabric, in a shade between a medium and dark blue color. A "wale" means you can see the diagonal weave. Avoid the blackish-blue material that fades to purple; it is the wrong color and it is too heavy. The correct blouse has a short collar and faced lapels and cuffs. Four evenly spaced US eagle buttons should fit into hand-worked buttonholes. Sleeves should have a small, scalloped vent in the rear of the cuff. Unlined versions have all seams flat-felled. Lined versions should have a one-piece body lining of wool or wool/cotton weave and a sleeve lining of muslin.
US Dress (aka "Frock") Coats – Permitted
US EM Jackets -Permitted
State Pattern Jackets. It is preferred that this item be made of dark blue kersey or satinette, not heavy navy-blue wool that turns purple. General features are a six-piece body, and a two-piece sleeve and a 9-button front. It should not have trim or piping of any other color. The body should be lined and quilted, and it may have functional epaulets and a chevron cuff on the sleeves. This jacket can be seen in photographs of Illinois and Ohio troops early in the war.
US Musician's Coats:
Tape trim to be of worsted wool, in the appropriate weave color. Musicians do not need full musician's coats; standard fatigue blouses are preferred.
US Trousers, Foot:
Your trousers should be made of a sky-blue kersey-weave wool, and cut so that the top of the waist band reaches your navel, with a rise even higher in the back. No pleats, should have a watch pocket. Buttons should be paper- backed tin. This is another item in which properly WEARING the garment as it was worn then, much higher than we wear modern trousers today, will have a significant effect on your overall appearance.
US Trousers, Mounted:
These are made of a kersey-weave wool, and cut so that the top of the waist band reached to at least the wearer's navel. Will have a seat reinforcement and instep strap, but be identical in cut to the foot pattern in all other respects. Major features of foot and mounted trousers are a thin, tapering waist band; narrow, three to five button fly; yoke in back; raised back; side pockets that start below the waist- band; right-side watch pocket; facing cuffs.
US Issue Shirts - Preferred
The Federal Issue domet or gray flannel shirt is the very best option for a US impression. The domet flannel shirt will have three tin buttons: one at the neck and one at each cuff. Domet flannel is a cotton warp and wool weft, in an off-white color.
Non Issue Clothing :
Civilian Shirts should be made of 100 percent natural materials in period-correct colors and/or patterns. Buttons will be either metal or a natural material such as bone, wood, or mother-of-pearl. Please only wear a civilian shirt if absolutely necessary! If you must wear a private purchase shirt however, this is one area of your impression that you have a bit of latitude. Either a fall down collar was worn or a banded collar, with or without a detachable collar. One, two or no pockets. Period patterns called for the skirts to be longer than modern shirts. Small shell, glass, mother of pearl, bone or small wood buttons can be used. Shirts should not be made from calico and should not have oversized wooden buttons.
Suspenders: Not a military issue item, so there is some latitude here as well. They are not required if your trousers will stay up without them. Stick with a plain fabric pair of a period pattern.
US Drawers:
Drawers are of 100 percent natural material. Buttons will be either metal or a natural material such as bone, wood, or mother-of-pearl. Issue drawers were made primarily with Canton flannel. Wool knit, cotton flannel and wool flannel were also used. They closed with two tin buttons. There is no known correct pattern for issue knit drawers. Correct pattern civilian drawers are acceptable. While some drawers of the period were made from colored fabric, white or natural was the most common. No, we’re not going to inspect your drawers – but the right ones are not only “right,” they are far more suitable for the weather we are likely to have in Highland County in early May.
US Socks:
Socks are to be made of a solid-color yarn, in any of the following colors: off-white, gray, buff, blue, or bluish-gray. They should not have rings or bands of contrasting color. No elastic. Socks should be made of wool, cotton or a wool/cotton union. No modern stuff, please.
US Shoes:
Shoes are to be constructed from rough-side-out leather, with leather or rawhide shoelaces, leather soles and leather heel lifts. The shape of the toe can be square, or broadly rounded, but not pointed in the manner of modern wingtip shoes. Try to avoid the really ‘fuzzy' looking leather; if your shoes are too rough, they can be finished smooth with some elbow grease. Hobnails, double soles, and heel- plates are optional. As to civilian shoes and boots, there is great latitude here, but keep in mind that the cut construction and materials must all be in keeping with the period.
US Cavalry Boots:
Should be made of rough-out leather, black color. Maximum height of upper 12 inches. Leather soles and heel. No engineer boots.
US EM Overcoat, Foot:
Overcoats are encouraged and are appropriate for the scenario. They should be of kersey with 5 large buttons, 9 small buttons on cape. Same material as the trousers. Single breasted. Standing collar. Lined with heavy cotton, jean or wool. Single button adjustable strap in the back. Unfinished bottom. Sleeves should also be lined.
US EM Overcoat, Mounted:
see foot pattern, more buttons
US Waterproofs (Ponchos, painted & gum blankets):
For infantry impressions, the use of blankets is encouraged over the use of ponchos. Ponchos and blankets will have small 3/8 diameter or less grommets. Rubber cloth or painted canvas are acceptable.
US issue Woolen Blankets:
Wool blankets should not have edge binding. They should have "US" stitched into center, in any of the following shades: gray, brown, and grayish brown. No modern blankets with modern bindings or finished edges.
US Chevrons Minimum Requirements:
Worsted or kersey wool for company level NCOs. In the proper branch color.
Officers and NCOs:
There are no walk-ons, and there are no walk-on officers or NCOs either. Anyone with rank will know that before the event. Officer rank must be backed up with numbers of troops, unless you are a selected staff officer. The number of non-commissioned officers and commissioned officers will be in correct relation to the number of privates within each company. Rank insignia needs to be worn by all officers and NCOs. If you are not asked to be an officer or NCO, do not wear insignia or stripes. All chevrons and rank insignia should be worn as per regulations or as represented in period photographs.
Officers are encouraged to wear officers' blouses as opposed to frock coats. Contemporary accounts refer to officers being in blouses rather than frock coats during this battle and campaign.
